A virtual tour of the State Library Victoria

If there was only one building to explore in Melbourne, it would be this one. Located in the heart of the CBD, the State Library Victoria is a true architectural masterpiece and a must-see on every visit of the city. I challenge you not to go into raptures at the La Trobe Reading Room’s majesty and its incredible Dome! Whether you're a student, an avid reader or a simple tourist, follow me on a virtual tour of the State Library Victoria.

One of the most beautiful buildings in Melbourne

Summary

A bit of history
Virtual tour of the State Library Victoria
The Dome - La Trobe Reading Room
Dome to Catacombs Tour
Things to know before your visit

A bit of history

The State Library Victoria owes much to the work of one man, a judge of Irish origin: Sir Redmond Barry. It is his statue which proudly sits on the square in front of the building. Redmond Barry had a rather progressive vision for the time. He was known in particular for having vigorously defended two Aborigines accused of murder (despite all his efforts they were hanged in 1842). He also believed in the importance of education for all. It was to this end that in the 1850s he used his influence to have a public library built in Melbourne. The subject fascinated him so much that he himself drew up a list of works that had to be part of the collection. Legend says that he even helped arranging the books on the shelves until the night before the opening!

A design competition was organised, won by the architect Joseph Reed. The State Library Victoria was the first building he erected in Melbourne, but he would leave a lasting mark on the city in the decades that followed. Among the very long list of his works, we also owe him the Town Hall or the Royal Exhibition Building! Work began in 1854, and on 11 February 1856, the library opened its doors to the public.

The Town Hall and the Royal Exhibition Building

However, only a very small part of the current building existed then. The State Library Victoria was built in several stages over the years, and it is clearly visible! Visiting it sometimes gives the impression of an assortment of various halls and galleries with heterogeneous styles. But I find that this is also what gives it its charm. The portico at the entrance on Swanston Street was added in 1870 for instance. As for this famous Dome, it dates from 1913 only! To find out more, I invite you to consult the building timeline on the official website, which lists the countless additions or modifications made over 170 years of existence.

For a long time, the building did not exclusively house the library. Paintings from the National Gallery of Victoria were displayed there until the museum moved to St Kilda Road in 1968. The hall now known as the Redmond Barry Reading Room housed the collections of the Melbourne Museum before the construction of the current building in 2000. Books eventually replaced stuffed animals, including the famous horse Phar Lap! However, some paintings remained in the library and are today displayed in the Cowen Gallery.

Virtual tour of the State Library Victoria

Our tour of the State Library Victoria begins on the front lawn on Swanston Street, next to the statue of Sir Redmond Barry. This square is constantly lively. Students, tourists, street artists, employees having their lunch on a bench or demonstrators gathering, there’s always a lot of people here! During the Christmas season, the facade is lit up with stunning projections. You will also often see people competing on the two giant chess boards in front of the entrance. Will you dare challenging them to a game? If you lack knowledge for this, the library houses one of the most important collections of works dedicated to chess.

The original 1856 building stopped at the entrance hall. Cross it to take the grand marble staircase at the back and access the Ian Potter Queen's Hall. The murals above the stairs have been painted just after the First World War. This magnificent hall was the very first reading room in the library. In too poor condition, it was sadly closed for renovations from 2003 to 2019.

After another flight of stairs, you will arrive in the Cowen Gallery, a souvenir of the National Gallery of Victoria which previously occupied the premises. I find this room a little incongruous, cutting the library in two, but some of the paintings are splendid., especially the one depicting Melbourne in the 19th century.

The State Library Victoria is the third busiest library in the world. It welcomed more than two million visitors in 2023! However, you will see very few people actually reading a book. You cannot borrow works either, but only consult them on site. You’ll be spoiled for choice though: the library has over five million items and counting! Many are stored on a reserve near Ballarat and available by reservation only.

The Cowen Gallery opens into the Redmond Barry Reading Room. I find this room truly stunning. Don’t forget to walk around the mezzanine to admire it from upstairs! At the back is an important relic of local history, Ned Kelly's armour. This 19th century bushranger is considered an icon by many despite his crimes. This armour was the protection he wore on the day of his capture. But what is the link with the library? The man who led the trial during which he was sentenced to death in 1880 was none other than Redmond Barry.

I suggest to keep the Dome for the end of the visit, and to first go back down the stairs. Go across the Quad, the most modern space in the library. It is an 8-sided hall like the La Trobe Reading Room on the upper floor, and each corner is dedicated to a particular theme (including a Children’s Quarter opened in 2019).

This large hall overlooks several other rooms. On one side, a café and a bookshop as well as two exits on Russell Street and La Trobe Street. On the other, the very quiet Newspaper and Family History Reading Room and the Art Reading Room. But it is now time to go back to admire the highlight of the tour, that much-vaunted Dome.

The Dome – La Trobe Reading Room

The La Trobe Reading Room and its extraordinary Dome is the jewel of the State Library Victoria. At the time of its construction, this dome was the largest in the world! Before strolling through this exceptional room, start by gaining a little height to gaze at it from a different perspective. Take the elevator from the Cowen Gallery to the 4th floor, and admire!

Finally, go back down to the ground floor to complete this tour of the State Library Victoria. The raised desk in the centre of the La Trobe Reading Room was previously occupied by a 'shusher' who was in charge to keep the place quiet! The shelves that run around the room can accommodate up to 32,000 books. 320 readers can sit on the original silky oak chairs along the 8 radiating rows of desks. I came here several times to study myself, and while these chairs might not be as comfortable as modern seats, there is something quite unique about working in this exceptional room!

The corridors of this floor are dedicated to an exhibition entitled ‘The World of Books’. A staircase and an elevator also provide access to the balcony on the 6th level. The view from up there is again truly splendid.

Dome to Catacombs Tour

To find out more about the State Library Victoria, you can join the daily guided tours (see below). But you can also discover its best-kept secrets by following a free Dome to Catacombs Tour… To be honest, the first part of this visit brings nothing more than the classic tour. I was a little disappointed to see that the “Dome” part was limited to the balcony accessible to the public and did not go beyond that. But the “Catacombs” part allows you to explore behind the scenes: you can browse the immense reserves of the library, and even see the famous “Elephant lift” which was used to transport stuffed elephants when the building was home to Melbourne Museum!

Please note, this guided tour is very popular and must be booked well in advance. I had to get my ticket in June for a visit in August! Follow this link to book your tour.

Things to know before your visit

Finally, temporary exhibitions are regularly presented in the library. Two were taking place at the time of writing this article (June 2024): 'Searching for Sanctuary: a journey of Survival by Barat Ali Batoor' in the Keith Murdoch Gallery (immediate right as you enter the building) and 'Melbourne Out Loud' in the Victoria Gallery (entrance from the North Rotunda in the Cowen Gallery). The first recounts through poignant photos the exodus of an Afghan journalist threatened with death in his home country. The second is dedicated to the work of photographer Rennie Ellis in Melbourne from the 1960s to the 1990s. I personally found both really interesting. Click here to find out more about all the events organised by the State Library Victoria.

The State Library Victoria is open daily from 10am to 6pm (5pm for the Ian Potter Queen’s Hall). It is only closed on New Year's Day, Good Friday, Christmas Day and Boxing Day.

Free one-hour guided tours are organised every day, at 10:45am. and 1:45pm. Click here to book.

Have you ever visited the State Library Victoria? Which is your favourite building in Melbourne? Send me a message to let me know!