An epic road trip on the Great Ocean Road
Did you know that one of the most beautiful roads in the world was located only an hour and a half from Melbourne? Stretching along Australia’s rugged south coast, the Great Ocean Road offers breathtaking views at every turn. From the surf mecca of Bells Beach to the iconic Twelve Apostles, get ready for a fabulous journey… and you will even see koalas along the way! So buckle up and follow me for an epic road trip along the Great Ocean Road.
The most beautiful road in Australia
Things to know before your road trip
Let’s begin with a bit of history! The Great Ocean Road was built between 1919 and 1932 by soldiers returning from the First World War. It was proclaimed a Tourist Road in 1936, and renamed Great Ocean Road in 1972. The goal was to connect a few isolated settlements along the coast, while paying tribute to the men who fell on the front. It was a titanic project, especially with the limited resources at the time. When the road was completed, it became (and still is) the largest war memorial in the world.
The Great Ocean Road is approximately 250km long. It can be covered in a single day, but I highly recommend taking at least two days to explore it. Traffic is obviously two-way, but from my point of view it is better to start from Torquay and finish in Warrnambool. The ocean will be on your left, and you’ll have much easier access to the numerous viewpoints without having to cut off the traffic coming from the opposite lane. Finally, be aware that the weather changes very quickly on the Great Ocean Road. It’s a very windy region, and a gloomy morning can give way to a sunny afternoon… or vice versa!
Large parts of Victoria can be prone to bushfire during summer. Always check the conditions on Vic Emergency before you go.
Torquay and Bells Beach – the surfing capitals
This road trip along the Great Ocean Road begins in Torquay, a small but world-famous coastal town. The reason: the legendary Bells Beach, located just a few kilometres south of the city. A name that makes many surfers dream! The Rip Curl Pro, one of the major surfing competitions, is held here every year at Easter. This is also where the final scene of the movie Point Break takes place... even though it was actually filmed in the United States! Beyond Bells Beach, the entire region is immersed in surf culture. This section of the coast (until Lorne) is very officially called the 'Surf Coast', and the brands Rip Curl and Quicksilver have been created in Torquay.
Even if you're not travelling at Easter, Bells Beach is worth a visit. A large number of surfers try to tackle its impressive waves throughout the year. Reserved for those who have a lot of practice only!
Shortly after Bells Beach, Point Addis offers a stunning view over the coast, especially at sunset.
From Anglesea to Apollo Bay – dramatic cliffs and charming towns
The Great Ocean Road joins the coast in the small town of Anglesea, never leaving it again before Apollo Bay. Locate the sign indicating a scenic lookout on the right (Loveridge lookout). Beautiful view indeed, but still only an appetizer compared to what awaits you further...
The next town is Aireys Inlet, 10 kilometres after Anglesea. Park along Inlet Crescent at the exit of the town, then take the walking path up to the Split Point lighthouse. Built in 1891, it measures 34m high and can be visited. Great panorama as well from Split Point lookout!
Shortly after Aireys Inlet, the Memorial Arch pays tribute to the approximately 3,000 men who participated in the construction of the Great Ocean Road. A toll gate in operation from 1922 to 1936 was located here. It’s in the kilometres that follow that this road trip will start to become truly epic. The road gradually gains height, soon literally winding along the side of dramatic cliffs. Each turn opens a new perspective, even more spectacular than the previous one. Trust me, you'll want to stop at every lookout, and there are many! As images sometimes speak louder than words, here is a little gallery of photos to make your mouth water.
The road continues like that for more than fifty kilometres. Breathtaking landscapes follow one another without interruption. The only brief break is when you’ll drive through the charming little town of Lorne. And then over the last few kilometres the terrain softens, the waves relentlessly crashing onto the shore seem to be a little less threatening, and you’ll finally arrive at Apollo Bay, the last city on this part of the coast. Congrats, you have done the first third of the Great Ocean Road!
Kennett River Nature Walk – koalas spotted!
About twenty kilometres before Apollo Bay, stop at the hamlet of Kennett River. Park in the first parking lot on the right, then take the path starting from there: the Kennett River Nature Walk. It’s a pretty trail among the eucalyptus trees and through the ferns, but its main interest can be summed up in one word: koalas! This is one of the best places on the Great Ocean Road to observe these adorable furballs, so keep your eyes wide open. And if you’re sadly unlucky, don't hesitate to take a walk around the hamlet. It's not uncommon for the inhabitants of Kennett River to wake up with a koala in their garden!
Cape Otway – stunning eucalyptus trees and more koalas
Just after Apollo Bay, the Great Ocean Road turns inland and the landscape changes completely. Apart from a glance at Castle Cove lookout, you will no longer see the sea for more than 80 kilometres! But you won’t lose out on that, as the eucalyptus forest that you will cross is truly beautiful. You will feel very small surrounded by these immense trees!
A large colony of koalas lives in the area. The best way to observe them is to turn left at the intersection leading to the Cape Otway lighthouse. You can easily stop in several spots on the side of this road and try your luck by scanning the trees! Tip: if you see a few cars parked next to each other, it is quite likely that their occupants managed to find koalas and stopped there to observe them more closely.
This road ends at the Cape Otway lightstation, the southernmost point of this part of the coast (only Wilsons Promontory National Park is located further south). You can visit the entire heritage precinct and climb to the summit of the lighthouse to enjoy the view, but I find the entrance fees quite expensive ($19.50 for an adult) so I’ve never done it myself.
Back on the Great Ocean Road, the landscape then alternates between more eucalyptus forest, and very green and rolling countryside. It is still very pretty, but after a while you will probably feel a bit impatient to reach the end of this section of the itinerary. And for good reason: the next stop will be at the iconic Twelve Apostles…
Twelve Apostles – the Icons
It’s THE postcard image, the one that all tourists embarking on a road trip on the Great Ocean Road want to take a picture of… you included! Patiently sculpted by millennia of erosion, these enormous limestone needles are of fabulous beauty. But no matter how much you look at them and from which angle, you will not see twelve of them. They are only seven since one collapsed in 2005! They were actually never twelve. Their original name was Sow and Piglets, and they were renamed the Twelve Apostles in an attempt to attract more visitors!
Just before the Twelve Apostles are the Gibson Steps, two other huge rocks beaten by the waves. You can admire them from the same observation platform. But unlike their famous neighbours, you can also see them much closer by going down to the beach! The narrow and slippery staircase that leads there is only open at low tide. Once on the sand, do not walk directly to the base of the cliff. As you will have understood, this limestone rock is very fragile and landslides are frequent.
Loch Ard Gorge – the story of a dramatic wreck
The next stop is less famous, but it is perhaps the most spectacular. Just four kilometres after the Twelve Apostles, turn left and stop at the Loch Ard Gorge car park. This name is closely linked to a dramatic wreck story. On March 1st 1878, the three-masted Loch Ard left Great Britain with destination Melbourne. She had 37 crew members and 17 passengers on board, including seven members of the Carmichael family. After three months of travel, the arrival was very close. You can imagine the excitement of these men and women who were just about to begin a new life... But on the night of June 1st, the ship was caught in heavy fog. When it lifted, it revealed a vision of horror: the Loch Ard was facing high white cliffs. Despite the captain's best efforts, the current inevitably pushed the ship onto a reef, and it sank in just a few minutes. Of the 54 passengers, only two survived. Only four bodies were recovered, and buried in a cemetery directly on the site. A plaque was also erected to pay tribute to the victims.
Keep this story in mind as you wander along the many paths around Loch Ard Gorge. Looking at the brutality of the current, the countless reefs, and the waves relentlessly hitting the cliffs, you can imagine the terror that must have gripped the ship's passengers when it sank. There are too many viewpoints to mention them all here, so I will again just post a gallery of pictures of this spectacular landscape.
This is by far not the only sinking to have occurred in the region. The section of coast from Cape Otway to Port Fairy is even called the Shipwreck Coast, and over 700 wrecks lie on the ocean floor! But this one became particularly famous because of its outcome. The two survivors were one of the Carmichael family daughters, Eva, and a cabin boy named Tom Pearce. Both were 18 years old, and their dramatic story made the front page of the press of the time. Everyone hoped that they would get married, but Eva eventually returned to Ireland after a few months. Legend has it that they might have met again years later. Eva's husband is said to have saved Tom, whose boat had wrecked on the Irish coast! But this extraordinary coincidence is not attested and it is more likely that they never saw each other again.
From Port Campbell to Warrnambool – the last kilometres
The village of Port Campbell is the ideal place to recover from all these emotions. Its beach is probably the nicest on the entire Great Ocean Road! A path easily accessible from a car park just after leaving the town gives access to a few lookouts, offering a beautiful view.
It's already the last part of this road trip along the Great Ocean Road, but there are still many places to discover! One of the most spectacular is the London Bridge, 7 kilometres after Port Campbell. This extraordinary natural arch was previously connected to the mainland by another arch. But it collapsed in 1990, leaving two tourists trapped on what suddenly became an island! They were fortunately rescued by helicopter a few hours later.
You can admire two other natural arches in the same area, The Arch and The Grotto.
Last but not least, the stunning lookout of the Bay of Martyrs, just after Peterborough. Once again, a gorgeous panorama which would attract thousands of tourists if it were not preceded by so many other sublime places...
And this is the end of the Great Ocean Road! Keep going until Allansford, a few kilometres before Warrnambool, from where you can take Highway One back to Melbourne…
Great Otway National Park – lush rainforest and waterfalls
…or retrace your steps to explore the Great Otway National Park! In the town of Lavers Hill, halfway between the Twelve Apostles and Apollo Bay, take the C155 road inland. About fifteen kilometres further, turn right onto Phillips Track, a sealed road turning into a dirt track as it goes deep into the forest. It will take you to a small parking lot from where you can take a pleasant walk to admire two waterfalls: Triplet Falls and the beautiful Little Aire Falls.
There are two other attractions to do in this area, but I haven’t had the opportunity to test them myself yet. First, if you take Phillips Road you will drive past the Otway Fly Treetop Adventures. Among other activities for the whole family, you can climb on the Treetop Walk, a footbridge almost 30m high among the eucalyptus trees. And finally, just after the village of Beech Forest, turn right on Binns Road to admire a grove of Californian Redwoods. These sequoias are known to be the tallest trees in the world! These ones measure around sixty meters ‘only’ (the record is held by a tree in the north of California at more than 115m), but they were planted in 1936 and some experts believe that they could grow to almost twice their current height over the next 70 years! Who is up for a road trip with me towards the end of the century?
Where to stay on the Great Ocean Road
I highly recommend spending at least one night at Bimbi Park near Cape Otway. This campsite in the middle of the forest offers pitches for tents and vans (powered or unpowered), as well as comfortable cabins that can accommodate up to 6 people. Very warm welcome, several activity options, but above all you will sleep under the koalas. It’s impossible not to spot any! Walking around the campsite with your nose in the air to observe them is surely the best way to end or start the day.
If you prefer kangaroos to koalas, then head to the Princetown Recreation Reserve. This campsite is a lot more basic and does not offer accommodation. Reserved for those travelling in a tent, van or motorhome only. In the evening, you will be able to observe numerous kangaroos in the surroundings, even venturing sometimes into the campsite! Another advantage, this campground is only 7 kilometres from the Twelve Apostles. Ideal for getting there at sunrise or sunset, and avoiding the crowds of tourists.
Finally, for those travelling on a budget, the YHA Hostel in Apollo Bay is very clean and comfortable.
All campgrounds managed by Parks Victoria are free from 1 December 2024 to 30 June 2025! That includes several campsites on the Great Ocean Road. Click on the link below for more details.
Where to eat on the Great Ocean Road
Beyond the exceptional landscapes of the Great Ocean Road, gourmets will also find something to delight in!
For a coffee break, I recommend the Lighthouse Tea Room, right next to the Split Point lighthouse in Aireys Inlet. Their scones and almond croissants are delicious!
If you are in Apollo Bay at mealtime, the Apollo Bay Distillery offers excellent pizzas. You can also taste their gins and vodkas, distilled on site. For dessert, don't miss the ice cream from Dooley's, awarded numerous times as the best ice cream shop in the region.
Without a doubt my favourite restaurant on the Great Ocean Road: The Perch in Lavers Hill. The place is stunning, many colourful parrots regularly come to peck at the feeders on the terrace, and the food is delicious! Dishes are a little more expensive here though: count on 35 to 40 dollars per person, without drinks.
Finally, if you go all the way to Port Campbell, Grassroots Deli Cafe is an excellent choice. Nice place, very good service, and pretty decoration!
Now that you know everything, it's time to hit the road! Enjoy exploring the Great Ocean Road!
Acknowledgment of country
I respectfully acknowledge the Traditional Owners of the land where Naarm/Melbourne is located, the Wurundjeri Woi-wurrung and Bunurong / Boon Wurrung peoples of the Kulin Nation, and pay respect to their Elders, past and present.
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