A latte at Stagger Lee's cafe in Fitzroy, Melbourne

Melbourne, the coffee capital of the world

Melbourne is known for its quality of life, its street art, its vibrant cultural scene… and its coffee! Could you really consider yourself a local if you don't start your day with your usual cappuccino, long black or mocha? With more than 2000 cafes serving the precious beverage all around the city, you are in any case spoiled for choice for your cuppa! But where does this passion for the ‘black gold’ come from? Follow me on an aromatic journey through the streets of Melbourne, the coffee capital of the world.

Long black, latte or flat white?

Coffee passion

I would like to start this article with a personal anecdote. In France, my country of origin, people drink coffee almost exclusively black. The profession of barista practically does not exist. When I first arrived in Melbourne in 2016, I didn't know what a flat white or a macchiato was (don't panic if this is also your case, I'll explain everything later in this article!). But when I started looking for a job, I quickly noticed that there were a lot of cafes all over the city. I naively thought that I could easily get hired at one of them, despite not drinking coffee myself, too bitter for my taste. It couldn’t be that complicated, right? Well… I still remember the amused smile of the manager of a cafe in St Kilda to whom I had given my resume, understanding that I didn't have the slightest idea how to prepare a simple latte.

I owe a lot to this man. Thanks to his advice, I took a course to become barista, a job I still do today, almost 8 years later! I also discovered that milk and foam softened the bitterness of coffee, and I started to enjoy it. I now have a flat white every day! It was while talking to this man that I realised how important coffee was in Melbourne. This passion is particularly noticeable in the way people drink it. The vast majority of cafes in the city are independent, run by individuals or small companies rather than owned by a large franchise. Baristas know the habits of their regular customers, call them by their names and know exactly what their favourite coffee is. It’s an integral part of the Melbourne lifestyle and an amazing way to socialise. People go on dates in cafes, they take a break with their colleagues in the one closest to their office, they go for brunch on weekends… In contrast, the American giant Starbucks experienced a huge failure when trying to establish in Australia at the very beginning of the 2000s. Eight years after its arrival, the company had to close 61 of its 87 stores, unable to adapt to the local coffee culture!

Degraves Street in the CBD of Melbourne
Degraves Street in the CBD of Melbourne

The origins

But how did Melbourne become the coffee capital of the world when the city was only founded in 1835? And apart from a species recently discovered in the north of Queensland, coffee is not even native to Australia!

Unlike Europe where the coffee tradition was firmly anchored, Australia would become a land of experimentation, with Melbourne at the forefront of innovation. The different communities that coexisted there, each with their own specificity, gradually contributed to the emergence of a coffee culture unique in the world. It was in Australia that the flat white was invented in the 1980s. Sydney and Melbourne dispute its authorship, but the magic is definitely a 100% Melbournian coffee, introduced in the 2010s. Nowadays, the city is home to a lot of local artisan roasters who constantly focus on sourcing the highest quality beans and perfecting the brewing process, while leading baristas keep searching for the next idea that could become a popular trend.

Pellegrini's Espresso Bar in the CBD of Melbourne
Pellegrini's Espresso Bar in the CBD of Melbourne

The answer comes from European immigration. The first British settlers in the 19th century brought tea with them. It was the immigrants of the 20th century, mainly the Italians and the Greeks, who contributed to the rise of coffee. The first espresso machines were imported in the 1950s. Founded in 1954 and still operating today, Pellegrini’s Espresso Bar on Bourke Street is said to have been the first in Melbourne to use one!

A flat white at St Edmonds Cafe in Prahran, Melbourne

The coffee capital of the world

Axil Coffee Roasters in Hawthorn, Melbourne
Axil Coffee Roasters in Hawthorn, Melbourne

While doing some research to prepare this article, I read several times that Melbourne was the city in the world with the most cafes per capita. I haven't found any really reliable sources (some also mention London, Portland or Shanghai), but I have a striking example in the neighbourhood where I live, Balaclava. There are no less than fifteen cafes within a five-minute walk of my house!

There’s one drawback though. Surprising as it may seem, it can be very complicated to find a cafe open after 3pm in Melbourne! As most of them are independent, they have generally small teams of just a few employees. And as they open early in the morning (often around 7am), they also have to close early to avoid long days for staff members... Good to know if you like to drink your cuppa late in the afternoon!

This is also in Melbourne that some of the best coffee connoisseurs in the world are based. A world barista championship is organised every year. The 2022 winner? Anthony Douglas, employee of the famous Melbournian company Axil Coffee Roasters. His colleague Jack Simpson also reached the podium in the last two years, third in 2023 and second in 2024.

Know your coffee!

There are almost as many ways to drink coffee as there are people in Melbourne! I'm exaggerating a little, but between those who prefer it weak or strong, with more or less sugar, and with a certain type of milk (regular, skim, lactose free, soy, almond, oat, coconut...), the combinations are almost infinite. Here are the most common varieties:

  • espresso: a simple shot of coffee, often drunk in one go!

  • long black: usually two shots of espresso diluted half with hot water, for those who like the bitterness of coffee

  • latte: the standard coffee with milk, the one most often ordered in Melbourne. One or two shots of espresso, hot milk, and a layer of foam precisely 1cm thick at the top! Traditionally served in a glass and not in a mug

  • flat white: similar to the latte, but with a thin layer of foam… hence the name!

Cartons of soy, almond and oat milk in a cafe of Melbourne
Cartons of soy, almond and oat milk in a cafe of Melbourne
  • cappuccino: unlike the flat white, a cappuccino is served with a thick layer of foam and chocolate powder on top

  • mocha: one third of coffee, one third of milk, and one third of hot chocolate!

  • short macchiato: a single shot of espresso, a little bit of hot milk, and a tea spoon of foam on top. The ‘long mac’ is identical but with two shots of coffee

  • magic: the most Melbournian of all coffees! It simply doesn’t exist anywhere else. It consists of two shots of ristretto (a shorter extraction time compared to the espresso), hot milk and a layer of foam, but served three-quarters full. It’s supposed to enhance the coffee aroma and to be the best way to enjoy it for specialists.

And you, how do you drink your coffee?

My favourite cafes in Melbourne

It’s impossible for me to make a list of the best cafes in Melbourne. There are simply too many to be objective! I won't mention the most famous chains either, like St Ali, Market Lane or Code Black. The ones I indicate below are my personal favourites, because I like their atmosphere, because their decoration is pretty and because they have good service. And also because they make great coffee, of course!

Hello Sparrow: I'm starting with the one that was literally next door to where I used to live until September 2024 in Balaclava/St Kilda. Opened earlier that year by two very friendly brothers from New Zealand, TJ and Garreth, the coffee is always good and the brunch menu is varied, original and delicious!

Levanter: still in Balaclava, on Carlisle Street, this Middle Eastern cafe offers several traditional Syrian dishes. I love the courtyard at the back, with a large table in the centre that encourages discussions between strangers! Very beautiful presentation, especially for the teas, served on a nicely decorated tray. It is also one of the rare cafes open all day, until 7pm.

Krimper Cafe: my favourite in CBD. The location of this cafe alone is worth the detour: on Guilford Lane, a cobbled lane with beautiful red brick buildings and a profusion of plants. The interior is a little rustic with exposed beams and an assortment of disparate furniture, but very warm and welcoming!

Top of the Hill in Northcote, Melbourne
Top of the Hill in Northcote, Melbourne

Terror Twilight: on Johnson Street in Collingwood, this cafe has a hipster atmosphere that matches the vibe of the neighbourhood. As the sign above the entrance says ‘Nice people, great coffee, food & cocktails’! I also like the music selection, with a record player for vinyls chosen by the staff.

Top of the Hill: I've only been once to this cafe on High Street in Northcote, but I loved my visit! The small room at the entrance with its rounded ceiling does not suggest the magnificent courtyard at the back, ideal for a relaxing moment. And the coffee was delicious!

Babble Café in Prahran, Melbourne
Babble Café in Prahran, Melbourne

Babble Café: located in Prahran, this cafe is ideal for a weekend brunch, especially when the sun is out. I really like the outdoor terrace, with these long tables facing the street. The perfect place to comment on the look of passers-by while sipping your cuppa!

All Things Equal in Balaclava, Melbourne
All Things Equal in Balaclava, Melbourne

All Things Equal: back to Carlisle Street in Balaclava for this last cafe on my list. I admit I'm more accustomed to Levanter and Hello Sparrow in the neighbourhood, but I wanted to highlight the concept of this place. Here, most of the employees are people with disabilities, who can thrive and earn a living by working, without their difference having the slightest importance. As the website explains: ‘at All Things Equal, we celebrate the people just as they are’. Well said!

One Cup at a Time

If you're interested in Melbourne's coffee culture, I invite you to check out the blog I created in October 2024, called One Cup at a Time. I regularly publish articles on different aspects of this so specific coffee culture, and I also present in detail my favourite cafes. Follow me as well on the One Cup at a Time Instagram page!

One Cup at a TimeOne Cup at a Time

What is your favourite cafe in Melbourne? Send me a message to let me know!