The best things to do in Fitzroy

Fitzroy is arguably my favourite suburb of Melbourne. Known for its eclectic culture, its vibrant nightlife and its abundant street art, it has an alternative atmosphere that I particularly love. Get ready for second hand shops, vegan restaurants and live music everywhere! From Nicholson Street to Smith Street, follow me on a tour of the best things to do in Fitzroy, Melbourne's oldest suburb.

Welcome to Melbourne’s oldest suburb

Summary

Melbourne's oldest suburb
An alternative atmosphere
The best street art in Melbourne
Eat, drink and party in Fitzroy
Getting there

Melbourne’s oldest suburb

Our tour of Fitzroy begins on Brunswick Street, just after the intersection with Gertrude Street. Head to the north, leaving behind to your right the ugly apartment towers built in the late 1960s. You will soon be able to admire much more beautiful facades of Victorian architecture on both sides of the street. Established in 1839, Fitzroy is Melbourne's oldest suburb, and it is still clearly visible! My favourite example: the splendid Beswick Building, on the corner with Greeves Street.

For a long time, Fitzroy primarily had a working-class population. It was only at the end of the 20th century that the neighbourhood gradually gentrified. The old warehouses were transformed into apartments, and the brick facades now adjoin more modern buildings. You will see several examples in the leafy streets and backyard alleys that crisscross the neighbourhood. You will also see many pretty individual houses with ‘gingerbread trims’ on their facades. For me, one of the best things to do in Fitzroy is to stray from Brunswick Street to get lost in this labyrinth of laneways! The colours are superb especially at spring or during fall, when leaves take on their red-orange hue.

Surprisingly, the massive Town Hall is also located on one of these secondary streets, Napier Street. Built in the 1870s, its facade with its imposing columns and its bell tower is worth a detour.

Continue then to Smith Street, . The mix of architectural styles is much more heterogeneous here, but also with some superb facades like that of the Patersons Building, a former furniture store built in 1911. Smith Street also marks the border between Fitzroy and Collingwood. One side walk is in Fitzroy, and the other in Collingwood! These two neighbourhoods are actually quite similar, and it is difficult to explore one without making at least a foray into the other.

An alternative atmosphere

Return then to Brunswick Street to experience the bohemian and alternative vibe that Fitzroy is known for. With its industrial past, the neighbourhood always had a working-class atmosphere. More recently, art galleries or cultural third places have taken possession of the old factories. It’s also a very multicultural area, with a large LGBT+ community. The whole suburb is full of second-hand shops, florists, barbers, or antique stores and vintage boutiques.

This offbeat side can also be felt by looking up. You will see many surprising signs on both sides of Brunswick Street!

There’s also a strong sense of community in Fitzroy. It is particularly palpable in Rose Street, between Nicholson Street and Brunswick Street in the northern part of the suburb. This small street is home to two different craft markets! Every Saturday between 9am and 2pm, choose from dozens of vintage clothes, antiques and collectibles, or second-hand books at the Mills Market. Right next to it, the Rose Street Artist’s Market is open on Saturdays and Sundays between 10am and 4pm. Here, designers and artists showcase their unique jewellery, paintings or homewares and furniture. The ideal place to purchase something to decorate your apartment or find an original souvenir!

The only thing Fitzroy lacks is a green space. Despite their name, the beautiful Fitzroy Gardens are actually located in East Melbourne! Several other parks surround the neighbourhood. The Carlton Gardens (home to the Melbourne Museum and the stunning Royal Exhibition Building) are just across Nicholson Street. The Edinburgh Gardens in Fitzroy North are also not far. Finally, the immense Yarra Bend Park is only two kilometres away on the east side.

The best street art in Melbourne

The list of the best things to do in Fitzroy would not be complete without mentioning street art! It’s a significant part of its identity, and along with its neighbour Collingwood, it is probably the best suburb in Melbourne to admire huge and gorgeous murals. I will only mention my favourites here, but I encourage you to be curious to find others. Have also a look at my much more detailed article dedicated to street art in Fitzroy and Collingwood!

Mural by the Everfresh crew on the facade of the Night Cat

See also: where to find the best street art in Fitzroy and Collingwood

Among my other favourites, there’s this funny praying mantis by Buzzard (Victoria Street), a gorgeous woman’s face by Cam Scale (Hertford Street) or these dancing figures by the American Keith Haring (on Johnston Street in Collingwood), one of the pioneers of the New York underground scene. This last one is a real collector’s piece: it has been painted in 1984! Keith Haring also has his own portrait painted on a huge wall on Easey Street in Collingwood, along with his friend Jean-Michel Basquiat, by artists Heesco, Conrad Bizjak and Chehehe.

Finally, Cecil Street in the northern end of Fitzroy is like an open-air gallery. There you can admire no less than 7 giant portraits, including work from Adnate (again), Rone or Sofles.

The extremely talented artist Adnate has painted a few murals in the area: a woman with gorgeous blue eyes (corner of Johnson and Brunswick Street), the face of an Aboriginal boy (corner of Johnson and Fitzroy Street) and a portrait of the Dalai Lama (on Argyle Street). But his most impressive work is nearby in Collingwood: an extraordinary 50m-high mural on a building of Vere Street. It represents the faces of four local residents, and was for a period of time the tallest mural in the Southern Hemisphere! A record he broke himself in 2019 when he painted the facade of a hotel named after him (The Adnate) in Perth.

Eat, drink and party in Fitzroy

Foodies will find themselves in paradise in Fitzroy. The suburb boasts an impressive array of cafes, restaurants, and bars that cater to every palate. Its multicultural background is reflected in its diverse culinary offerings. You can savour authentic Vietnamese pho, enjoy Italian wood-fired pizzas, or taste some delicious sushi!

My favourite cafe in the area is actually located in Collingwood, but very close to the border with Fitzroy on Johnson Street. It’s called Terror Twilight, and I enjoy its hipster atmosphere that matches the vibe of the neighbourhood. As the sign above the entrance says ‘Nice people, great coffee, food & cocktails’! I also like the music selection, with a record player for vinyls chosen by the staff.

If there was only one bar to visit in Fitzroy, it would be Naked for Satan on Brunswick Street. This is probably my favourite bar in Melbourne! The view over the city from the rooftop deck is absolutely stunning. The food is also delicious, and if you happen to be in the neighbourhood between Monday and Thursday, you can benefit from an incredible deal: an entire pizza for $4 with any drink purchased! Only available in the downstairs area though.

See also: six reasons why you need to go to Naked for Satan in Fitzroy

Fitzroy is probably the best part of Melbourne to eat vegetarian or vegan. If you keen to try a plant-based menu, I highly recommend Transformer on Rose Street. Not being vegetarian myself, I wasn't necessarily excited before going there, but I found the food absolutely delicious. Bookings are essential!

Finally, Fitzroy is known for its vibrant nightlife. As the sun sets, there is live music practically everywhere! The suburbs’ numerous bars and pubs come alive on weekends with the sounds of bands and DJs. If you want to enjoy a proper gig, head to the iconic Night Cat on Johnson Street. Great line-up of local and international artists all year long!

Getting there

Located to the north-east of the CBD, a short walk from Parliament House, Fitzroy is very easily accessible by public transport. The suburb is surrounded by East Melbourne to the south, Carlton to the west, Fitzroy North to the… north (good guess), and Collingwood to the east. Tram 11 will take you directly to Brunswick Street, its main artery. Other possibilities, line 96 on Nicholson Street, or 86 on Gertrude Street and Smith Street, at the border with Collingwood.

So if you live in Melbourne or if you’re only visiting, make sure to check out all the best things to do in Fitzroy and Collingwood!